DIS-ASSEMBLING THE S602Z ...... 10 April 2006
Link to
CCD+Lens and Home Page

WHY ? Because it wanted me to.

- Sorry for the quality of some PIX. They were taken with a Canon G2. Even with 4 hrs of fiddling, I could NOT get it to take decent shot, beats me how anyone can like that camera.

3 Years on
It is now over 3 years later, and having now seen inside other brands, my opinions have changed markedly (I originally bagged the heck out of Fuji)... there are FAR worse designed models out there, both in build quality and support. So I've revised my "opinion" of the S602 (S7000 and S20 would be similar) ... Build Quality is Average, Lens design is still Pathetic. Fortunately, its a great camera.

My S602 is STILL clicking away without incident, EVEN after the hard life it's had and several open-heart surgeries :-). I have, like many others, been keeping an eye out for a worthy replacement and STILL can't find one. The S20 Pro was a hopeful, but the idiots removed 5fps TIFF (Raw would've been better) and the BIN function. For sports "shooters", that's just plain lunacy. I'm afraid our fearless leaders have suffered a stroke and are just paddling around aimlessly. When will these cretins give us "Firmware upgrades" !! or let US do our OWN !!
OK, Enough bitching, back to business.
I never did do the "updates" I was going to do. Too many lost interest along the way and I got lazy :-). I have nearly finished a few projects though. Maybe I'll get a new spark in 2006 :-) .... And that's it for the first 3 years

My love of electronics started one fateful day in 1968 when my old man said to me -
"Jimmy, U a smarta boy. Go fixa the damn TV"
I removed the cover of our aging black+white TV and noticed a pretty RED wire. A second later I was belted against the wall. Repeated attempts to touch "glowing" glass tubes, funny looking disks etc ALL met with the same result. I was in love !! Some say I haven't learned nothing since :-) PPFFTTT

1/ REMOVING THE REAR 3/4 COVER : Difficulty Lvl_2 ... Note: R2C5 referes to Pic @ Row_2 Column_5

NOTE : FIRST Remove the batteries and FLASH Cards.
There are 8 screws to remove from all around the rear section. All are the same length except 1 (above the Flash compartment).
1x Inside USB door
2x Bottom Rear of Case
1x Bottom Middle of Case
1x Above Flash CARD Compartment
1x Inside bottom of Flash CARD Compartment
2x Below EVF (push the EVF rubber out of way)

Gently pry open the back, which is held in place by tabs. It is easiest to hold the camera upside-down and drop the rear section down.
Unclip 2x ribbon cables which HOLD the assembly to the main PCB _ Take care not to STRESS these as they are quite Fragile !! Bending them too much will "crack" the conductive tracks. (Yep done that). Also note that the conductive tracks seem to be PRINTED, and flaky as hell. If you want to to check connectivity, leave them plugged into the connectors. Probing the conductor WILL DAMAGE IT. (Yep done that too).
Update: It seems that this was just a bad batch problem. I only occasionally encounter the fault now.
**NOTE: To remove ribbon cables, POP OUT the 2 retainers (at each end of the connector).

UNCLIP the Rear LCD Ribbon Connector and mini power connector.
To remove the LCD,
VERY CAREFULLY PRY it from a steel holder with your fingers. The rear section is a fragile EL plate, and can easily be cracked .. so DON'T twist or bend it, or try to pry it out with a screwdriver. I use small pliers to bend the retaining clip out first, remove the LCD, then ReFORM the clip. It's not spring steel, just soft cr@ppy metal, so it bends easily.

From here -
- You can clean, check Rear LCD.
- Service, check any Rear Panel switches Including Selector wheel.
- Look at the mess of connectors inside :-)
- Bugger all else

No Major CHIPS visible from here, just the usual "glue logic".

2/ REMOVING the OUTER LENS BARREL COVER : Difficulty Lvl_0.2 ---- NOT required to Dismantle the Camera.

There are only 3 screws to Remove from around the REAR of the LENS (actually 3 in the front section and 3 in the rear section).
1x Bottom Rear of LENS
1x Top (Power side) Rear of Lens
1x Top (Outside) Rear of Lens

Gently pry / wiggle LENS Cover away from LENS Internal Assembly. When re-assembling, jiggle the Focus ring so the 2 gears MESH easily (This will make sure the Outer Toothed Ring meshes with the Drive Ring. It won't cause any damage, you just won't have Manual Focus.) . ** There are NO Connections to worry about.

From here-
- You can clean, FIX the FOCUS DRIVE COG (The ZOOM drive is sealed in the Lens assembly)
- Clean out dust build up
- Use air pressure to blow out dust on the CCD or INNER LENS group.
NOTE: It is MUCH more effective to remove the Front Glass cover ring if you want to get to the dust. This cover is only held by double-sided tape and can be GENTLY pried away using a small flat screwdriver. More in the dust removal section.
- Bugger all else


First, you will need a long sharp scribe (or dentist's pick tool) .. 2 is preferred. Also if you don't have perfect eyesight, a magnifying lens is desirable.
Referring to Fig_
R4C1 and R4C2, pop-out the Flash Focus cover via the 2 tabs at the top. They are located at the corners. Fig_D3 shows the cover once it's "popped". Remove the cover. Notice the IR Focus LED alignment screw in the center, Fig_R4C4. DO NOT adjust it unless you need to re-align the IR sensors. However, it's an easy set-up if you do need to (like I had to :-) ). Now referring to Fig_R4C4, pop-out the 2 tabs from of the Flash Release Button. The P/Button is shown in red (blue=hidden). NOTE: I had to modify mine with a trusty DREMMEL (early production version?), so you will NOT see anything but 2 TINY tabs. UPDATE: MOST models NOW have a cut out section so it's much easier to get to. Once both are popped, the P/Button will spring out. The tabs are Horizontal. The exposed cavity is shown in Fig_R4C5. Remove the 2 OUTSIDE screws which hold 2 long SUPPORT ARMS.
Unclip the Top Section from around the Power Switch by squeezing it. The tabs are Internal but easy to pop out. Figs
R2C2-C5 and Fig_R3C1 show what the dismantled Section will look like. OK and Fig_R3C5. OK yeah technically also Fig_R3C3 and R3C5, for crying out loud. Once all the tabs have been released, carefully pull the top assembly BACK and UP away from the Flash Head NOTE: You will need to move it back 1/4 inch (to clear the support arms) before it can be swung up. You can only move it about an inch as there are SEVERAL ribbons and plugs to undo. Refer R7C4. Most of these are straight-forward Except 1. It's the Large HV power connector, you need to press the LOCK Lever to release it !! Putting this section back CAN be a little bit harder. You need to watch that the cables don't foul the Flash release CLIP !! Do a dry run before you screw anything together ie Push the Flash down making sure it holds and releases ok.

From here -
- You can look at the power switch assembly (it's sealed).
- Check several ribbons, connectors and cables for correct insertion etc.
- Wonder what the FOOK you're doing :-)


Again, we have a few ribbon cables and plugs to remove, and most are straight-foward again, except ONE !!
Refer Fig_
R3C3, this stupid connector is EASY to break thus rendering it useless, but it can be opened (I broke my very first one, but glued it back ok .. messy, but it worked fine). Don't look at me, I didn't design it. You WILL NEED a magnifying lens, a very sharp blade and a "pick" tool or 2 AND 5 hands if you are an octopus. The "locking bar" (shown in RED) actually pops UP in this case. Gently bend the "locking tabs" (blue) away while prying the locking bar UP (gently). The plastic is soft so you should have enough margin NOT to snap it. Refer R7C4 for InterConnects.
The main PCB module just pries out at 2 places. Pry away at the DC power Socket and 2 long plastic arms behind the module (Pix coming).
Your Disassembled camera should now look like Fig_
R1C3. If it looks MORE like Fig_R8C5, then you're in deep shit.

5/ ON to the CCD : Difficulty Lvl_1.5

In 3+ years, MANY MANY people have removed and cleaned the CCD and/or IR Lens. A few have even split the Lens and got it back together perfectly. I've ripped CCDs in and out a few dozen times now as well, even unsoldered and repaired faults on the CCD PCB. My point is - everyone and his dog has done it, so there's no special or pioneering skills needed any more. Its NO longer a daunting task.

** UPDATE : 17 April 2006 : Refer R8C2 and R8C3
It is definitely easier to Keep the Lens Holding Bracket WITH the Lens when removing the Assembly. Its a bit more work, but less stress than trying to PRY the Lens body away from the Outer lens cover. The Flexi ribbon (IR assembly) is just PULLED through the slot.
HINT : When attempting to get it back in, simply cut a rectangular flat piece of platic - slide it through the slot, then push the ribbon back up using the plastic as a guide. Very easy.

One users "notes".
"Once the camera has been disassembled, the next step is to remove the little card at the center of the body.
Then there are two screws that hold the lens assembly to the body.
But the lens assembly won't actually come out until you remove 3 more screws which are fairly obvious.
This loosens things up enough to allow the lens assembly to come out.
The CCD is mounted to the back of the lens assembly.
It is held in place by a metal bracket.
I was only able to loosen one of the screws on the bracket (they're VERY tight), but then I was able to swing the bracket out of the way and extract the CCD chip.
The chip is of course mounted to flexboard and has a piece of pink glass attached to it.
This is the surface to be cleaned.
I also sprayed inside the lens area with canned air, and discovered that there's a small optical gasket inside there.
I had to carefully reposition it before putting the CCD back in place.
That's all, thanks again! "

Other sites that have "service" information on 4900 and 6900 : (The lens / CCD is very similar)
- http://www.geocities.com/theolumens/uitelkaar.html
- http://www.camerashed.co.uk/

SUMMARY, NOTES and some dribble:

- You can split both halves of the PCB Assembly quite easily. NONE of the MAJOR IC's are visible at all. The MAIN CPU, Flash and Cache is buried under the CF and SM Holder. To get to these you need to unsolder a few S/M micro-connections.
- The Firing switch is sealed and glued by a steel plate, so it's impossible to solder "pick_off" wires with the intention of making an REMOTE electronic trigger (main reason I went in).
- There is NO JTAG or other Development Connector visible anywhere, so "live Emulation" is OUT - forget code changes.
- If you are careful and have reasonable dexterity, there should be NO reason that you can't perform your own service. In 2 years, many hundreds have done so, using these guides. MANY of the Fuji prosumer models are very similar as well. The S7000 and S20 Pro are practically identical, just with added racing stipes and spoiler :-)
- The build quality is barely adequate, so if you've been thinking of Extended warranty ... GET IT. Because of my many Motorcross shoots, I had the chance to remove a LOT of dust from inside. There are EASY migration paths via the CF slots and Battery Compartment, so DON'T rely on it being fully sealed. An example of the build quality is the LCD holder. Once you lever it out, the metal is deformed (NO spring tension). When you clip it back, you have to CLAMP it together (I used pliers) and hold it for 30 secs to set the tension again, otherwise it can fall out.
Note: Preforming it (ie overbending it a touch) is a simpler method.

- What did I learn ? Dis-appointment and the Decline of Standards :-)

PLEASE NOTE: All PIX are stored at

 N1_Row1Col1  N1_Row1Col2  N1_Row1Col3  N1_Row1Col4  N1_Row1Col5
 N1_Row2Col1  N1_Row2Col2  N1_Row2Col3  N1_Row2Col4  N1_Row2Col5
 N1_Row3Col1  N1_Row3Col2  N1_Row3Col3  N1_Row3Col4  N1_Row3Col5
 N1_Row4Col1  N1_Row4Col2  N1_Row4Col3  N1_Row4Col4  N1_Row4Col5

 N2_Row5Col1  N2_Row5Col2  N2_Row5Col3  N2_Row5Col4  N2_Row5Col5
 N2_Row6Col1  N2_Row6Col2  N2_Row6Col3  N2_Row6Col4  N2_Row6Col5
 N2_Row7Col1  N2_Row7Col2  N2_Row7Col3  N2_Row7Col4  N2_Row7Col5
 N2_Row8Col1  N2_Row8Col2  N2_Row8Col3  N2_Row8Col4  N2_Row8Col5

FOR ANY ENQUIRIES Please email me at jkirk@digsys.com.au